Frequently AskedQuestions

Got Questions? We Have Answers!
Browse or FAQs below, Not finding what you need? Call 407-599-2123
When I try to process my order, it will not process, says billing address is not correct?
Our website only processes orders for within the United States. If you are outside of the country, please call us at 407-599-2123 to process your order. We are open 9-5 EST, Monday through Friday.

We generally accept credit cards for those in Canada. However, on the larger international scale, we only accept wire transfer of funds prior to shipping.
How does the RO and RO/DI systems work?
The RO and RO/ DI systems both start with the AquaFX Premium 1 micron Sediment- removes all the dirt (sediment) and larger particles that are in the water. The AquaFX Carbon Block takes care of removing the chlorine for you. The membrane takes out more than 90% of the TDS (total dissolved solids) in your water. In an RO/DI, the DI canister takes out any remaining dissolved solids in the water out, always bringing your TDS down to 0.
When should I replace my filters?
We recommend replacing the sediment and carbon block every 500 gallons of product water.
The DI is color- indicating. So it starts out a blue/black/purple and will turn to a rust color as it is used up. It starts from the bottom and works its way to the tom. So you can visually keep an eye on it to let you know when to change it. If you have a TDS (total dissolved solids)meter, you can test the water coming out and use it until you no longer get a 0 ppm reading. Once it no longer reads 0 exiting the DI, the DI is done and needs to be replaced. There is no set time because everyone's water quality is different.
How often do you recommend replacing the membrane?
To find out if you need to replace your membrane we recommend that you use a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter and test the water that is going to your system. Then test the water exiting your membrane before it touches the DI. This 2nd number should be at least 90% less that the 1st number.

As an example, we will say the water entering the system is 100 TDS. SO if the water coming out of the membrane before the DI is less than 10, it's still good. If it is 10 or higher, time to change the membrane.

Another sign that it may be time, you may notice that you are using up the DI faster than normal.
Could you tell me where to register for your 3 year RODI warranty?
Could you tell me where to register for your 3 year RODI warranty? You can just email us at with your name, address, which unit you bought, where you bought it and the date.
My RO(/DI) System doesn't seem to be making enough water fast enough. Is it working correctly?
Please keep in mind that these units are rated in Gallons Per Day (GPD). This is over a 24 hour period. So if you have a unit that does...

50 GPD, should be making 2 gallons a hour or 2.8 cups/ 5 min
75 GPD, should be making 3 gallons a hour or 4.2 cups/ 5 min
100 GPD, should be making 4 gallons a hour or 5.6 cups/ 5 min
150 GPD, should be making 6.25 gallons a hour or 8.3 cups/ 5 min
200 GPD, should be making 8.3 gallons a hour or 11.1 cups/ 5 min
300 GPD, should be making 12.5 gallons a hour or 1 gallon/ 5 min
I bought an AquaFX Chloramine Blaster System. What is the tee and valve hanging off the end of the blaster cartridges for?
The ball valve is there so when you insert new Chloramine Blaster filters, you can open the ball valve to rinse the filters until the water runs clear.
Your website states that Chloramine Blaster needs two filters to get enough contact time? My current Carbon filter seems to works fine. Why is that?
If you have Chloramines, you do need to run it through 2 of the Chloramine Blaster filters, 1 removes a lot but not all. One carbon block would still pull out the chlorine; however, the Ammonia would pass through and blow through your DI in only a few gallons of product water. We have found that 2 of the Chloramine Blaster filters gets out the Chlorine and gives enough contact time to react out the Ammonia.
Would a TDS meter pickup Ammonia in its results?
No, a TDS meter does not pick up Ammonia in the results.
I just set up my AquaFX system and the yellow drain line is putting out a lot more water than the blue out of the RO. Is this normal?
I just set up my AquaFX system and the yellow drain line is putting out a lot more water than the blue out of the RO. Is this normal? This is completely normal. You should see 4 times the amount of water exiting the drain line than the product line. This ratio of water optimizes the life of the RO membrane on your system.
Will your RO system remove enough salt from the water to make it drinkable?
You need a true Desalinization system. These systems aren't made for this use.
What are the benefits of having a liquid filled pressure gauge?
This is mostly used when running a booster pump.
Should I install a flush kit on my system?
Flush kits are good to install on RO/DI systems... when you use a TDS meter to test your membrane life, watch the TDS (at the point after the membrane but before the DI). If you see that number starting to creep up, you open the ball valve on the flush kit. What this does, it sends a bunch of water through the membrane bypassing the flow restrictor. It rinses the membrane off. Let it run for like 3-5 minutes. When you recheck the TDS at that same location- the number should come down a bit. Over time it will still creep up as the membrane is used, but it lengthens the overall life of the membrane. 

To install, you can go to you tube and watch this video. It will show you where to install/ how to. You can skip to about 4 minutes into the video.
What is the difference in the high pressure and regular Automatic Shut-Off (ASO) Kits?
High Pressure ASO is for systems with 60psi or higher. Otherwise you can just use the regular ASO.
I recently purchased a unit and everything seems working fine except that the unit will not shut off. How do I get it to shut off without continuing to waste the life of my sediment and carbon filter?
What you are looking for is a float kit. This comes with an automatic shut off (ASO), a check valve, and a float. Once you install this on your unit with a float on your storage tank, your system should shut off on its own. The float goes up when the tank is full, and back pressure builds just a little bit. This engages the automatic shut off which then stops the water flow until the float goes down on your storage tank. The check valve is there to prevent the water from back flowing through your system.
What is the correct location for the TDS meter probes? I have 2 probes and have heard 3 different locations.
What we recommend is that you get an initial reading of what your tap water is (what's going into the system). You don't have to keep the probe there, but get the reading for your information. The TDS into your system doesn't really change too much. We highly recommend putting one after your membrane, before the DI. This is so you know when it's time to change your membrane on your system. The amount of TDS going into your system should drop by at least 90% after the membrane. As you see this number increasing and the effectiveness dropping closer to 90% or even less, it's time to replace your membrane. The final place you can place the probe is after the DI. This is so you know when the DI is completely used up. It should always read 0 TDS after going through the DI. Anything higher, the DI would be done and need replacement.
I have my hose connected to my water inlet line, but I cannot get water to go through the system. What could be wrong?
1) What is the PSI on your pressure gauge? The PSI should be between 40 and 80 psi. If there is no pressure, there is no water. Is the water on?
2)Is their a ball valve in front of the system? Is it in the open position.
3) Is something blocking the line? To test, disconnect the incoming tube line and try blowing through the line.
I have installed the 4 stage Barracuda RO/DI unit. I measured the pH of our city water and it was 7. I measured the pH from the water processed through the unit and it read 4. Why does the pH drop so much?
There is no way a unit can drop the pH like that. pH is a measure of free hydrogen ions in solutions. pH meters have a difficult time measuring ultra-pure water.

To test, put a very small amount of Baking Soda and re-measure. There are NO BUFFERS left and the change in pH will be large.

The other situation that occurs is the water dissolves Carbon Dioxide from the air forming Carbonic Acid, which lowers the pH. A remedy is to add a very small amount of Baking Soda, which will raise the pH.
Give Us a Call
Toll Free: 877-256-3467 Local: 407-599-2123